Blogiversary

Fall 08: Looking out into Womens Bay from the Kodiak harbor

The blog has been up for one year. We've found the blogosphere a great way to learn about the many fascinating lives people lead up in the Frontier. In fact, last night I met the author of the Anchorage Daily News Village Blog (find a link on the right). Give it a read if you have chance. The images posted here are the old banners from earlier editions of the blog. We've been trying to keep the titles seasonal. The current title is a picture from a ski outing in July. I am standing on the saddle between Erskine and Barometer peaks on Kodiak Island.

Winter 09: Meghan and a Steller sea lion in Kodiak harbor
(the boat pictured is actually named Provider and it fishes for scallops)

Spring 09: Meg paddling in Womens Bay in June

Whale Wallow

A pod of beluga keep cool while waiting for the tide to rise near Anchorage (Photo: AP)

On Saturday, while Sebastian and I were hiking at nearby Eklutna Lake, about 20 beluga whales found themselves trapped on the mudflats at the top of Knik Arm during an unusually low tide. Evidently the pod stuck together, dug a hole and waited a few hours for the water to rise. The Cook Inlet beluga have been a controversial topic in the past. In January, our former governor sued the Federal Government in an attempt to have their Endangered Species status rescinded claiming that the listing threatened vital economic interests in the Cook Inlet region. I wonder whether she'll have a chapter about whales in her new book.

More Kodiak Visitors

"Wo ist die Bodensee?"

This weekend, while Meghan continued her L48 Summer Tour (CO, CT, WI), I hosted a friend of a friend on his way home from Kodiak to Germany. Sebastian had been visiting our friend Missy in Kodiak for the last month. Many years ago Missy's family hosted Sebastian as a foreign exchange student. Before Meghan left Kodiak Sebastian asked her if he could stay with me in Anchorage before flying "over the pole" to Germany. Sebastian arrived on Thursday night and I did what any worthwhile American host would do, I took him to a 24 hour diner. Over sandwiches and fries I asked Sebastian about his exchange experience as a high schooler in Kentucky. With candor, Sebastian related several awkward stories of a European attempting to navigate the social labyrinth of an American high school - like asking the most popular girl in school to be his date for homecoming. His unabashed excitement, accent and the syllables that he stressed brought to mind my cousins in the Czech Republic. We hit it off immediately. Over the next few days we discussed everything from dachshunds (Ger., teckel) to the historic moments before the fall of the Berlin Wall. And, due to the close-knit nature of Kodiak, Sebastian shared my excitement when our friends Dirk and Jennifer called Saturday morning to arrange a get-together before meeting their parents at the airport in Anchorage (Sebastian had been to their house and paddled with Dirk). After catching up with Dirk and Jennifer we packed up Rebel and headed out to the Eklutna Lake Trailhead for a leisurely hike. Along the way Sebastian was able to snap a few pics of a moose and her two calves. On Sunday morning I dropped him at the Unc (Anchorage Airport) for his direct flight to Frankfurt (known as the "salmon bomber" as it is full of German fishermen) with a box full of Kodiak fillets. I hope that our path cross again soon.

Der Eklutnasee

Back in the Saddle (Hilltop Ride)

Ian takes a breather after a quick climb

Fellow Evergreen HS grad. Ian called me after work on Monday to arrange a ride on the new Hilltop Ski Area's singletrack trail system. The quarter-million dollar project completed last fall by Anchorage's Single Track Advocates offers nearly eight miles of dirt-pedaling bliss. Although the trails don't rival some the systems at some of the large mountain resorts in the L48, Hilltop does offer stunning views of the Anchorage Bowl and an iPod-free riding culture.

The Gasline Trail looking toward the Anchorage Bowl

Very few, if any, of the riders wear earphones at Hilltop because, as Ian and I found on Monday it is highly likely that one will cross a mammal of large dimensions on the trails. As a result, one's full attention is required to monitor both the trail ahead and anything brown and furry stirring in the bushes. Trying desperately to get home for dinner Monday night Ian and I were delayed several minutes as a cow and calf moose grazed while standing on the trail. Eventually we turned around, backtracking until we found a trail out of the woods. I look forward to getting to know the Hilltop system and avoiding ornery moose.

The young roadblock and mother

Powerline Pass Ride

The once-glaciated valley floor

My new office sits on the fourth floor of the Diplomacy Building at the southeast corner of town - in the morning shadow of the Chugach. Each day on my way to the copier I gaze, perhaps too long at times, toward the toothy peaks of North America' snowiest range. Today I finally got the chance to explore the expansive wilderness. I strapped the bike to the rack and drove toward the Glen Alps trailhead. When I arrived at the trailhead twosomes and threesomes in raingear headed off to the bushes hoping to fill their berry buckets. A light rain coated most everything in moisture. Donning a raincoat I pedaled onto the Powerline Pass Trail.

Atop Powerline Pass

Before leaving the range of the berry-pickers I spied three bull moose cavorting across the valley - their friendliness sure to vanish during fall rut. The valley soon turned to a bowl and I climbed to the top of the pass. A lone white dall sheep grazed on a nearby ridge. Kittiwakes swam in a blugreen tarn and seemed out of place. I reached the summit of the pass and paused, watching white clouds open and close like a ghostly curtain revealing treeless subalpine slopes. On the descent a rough-legged hawk kited just below the trail, circling then vanishing into the low white clouds. Farther, a large flock of ptarmigan sporting summer plumage crossed the trail clucking and cooing. Before long I was back to the trailhead where the numbers of berry-pickers had increased, swarming the valley slopes.

Trouble Bruin on the Kenai

A Kenai Brown Bear (photo by Daniel Ogden)

The Anchorage Daily News features a report this morning about a harrowing brown bear encounter in Soldotna - a town about 150 (road) miles south of the big city. Evidently local fishing guide, Greg Brush, was charged by an old, starving bear without any warning. Brush, alone but for his two dogs, was able to grab his handgun and fire a few rounds, killing the charging 900 pounder with a "lucky" shot . The bear collapsed and slid past Brush on its chin. The article goes on to mention that the number of bear-human interactions on the Kenai Peninsula is increasing. And compares the Kenai bruins to their Kodiak cousins who, as I have witnessed first hand, are much less interested in human encounters. While the debate over the best management practices for the omnivorous beasts will certainly continue, the conversations that I have had with Alaskans living rural communities is mixed. Some say that the bears are a nuisance and should be removed, while others recognize that they are part of Alaska's unique landscape and thus people should adapt their habits. Me, I'm not concerned at all about crossing a bear - Rebel is quite the bear dog (yeah right).

Anchorage Welcome Wagon

Some of our new neighbors stopped by today to welcome me to the neighborhood.

They were hungry, so we had a light snack.

They also said 'hello' to the great dane playing in the ball diamond across the street.

Friendly folk up here in the big city...

Visitors from Outer Space

"We totally trust Zula and Rebel together."

Earlier in the week our good friends Seth and Crystal McWheeler and their hound Zula stopped by our new place in Anchorage. The newlyweds tied the knot at the family spread in southern CO in July. We were happy to host them during a honeymoon drive up the Al-Can on the way back to Kodiak. Although we shared the same longings for sunny CO, the McWheelers planted roots in Kodiak and bought a fixer-upper overlooking the harbor. Needless to say their Subaru was loaded with necessary housewares including a wood stove.

We took the opportunity to sample the plethora of dining options in town. Although it was nice to dine al fresco, the food and service at our restaurant of choice left much to be desired. Alas, we enjoyed a stroll through downtown and a visit to the yard of the reindeer living downtown (still need to get the scoop on that one). We look forward to hearing of the progress on "their Old House."

Kodiak Bear Viewing

Ursus arctos middendorffii

This post is on behalf of Meghan who is "stranded" in Kodiak without a camera. Last night she and Alicia watched a young brown bear hunt for fish near our summer retreat. Says Meghan, "you should have seen him running through the water and throwing fish into the air." Thanks to Raymond Fletcher for the photo (he was out snapping pics last night). Meanwhile skiing buddy Mike Mannelin had a much closer encounter with the bruins (watch the video).

Stinky Whales

The gray whale in the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center smells just fine.

According to a report on Alaska Public Radio Russian subsistence hunters living across the dateline from Alaska are finding the meat of several recently harvested gray whales to emit a foul odor. Although the phenomenon has been observed in the past, the number of "stinkies" is increasing. Other marine mammals such as walruses have also been found with smelly meat as well. To biologists it's a mystery, yet perhaps traditional knowledge of indigenous groups may hold the answer.

In times of homelessness, my thoughts turn to home...

Over the weekend I moved into some new, temporary digs; my third Kodiak abode.

The rain over the last two days has been relentless, keeping me from honing my newly acquired fly fishing skills...the salmon are safe for yet another day. Bruce reports sunny weather with temperatures in the eighties in Anchorage.

Moving In

The important stuff safe and sound in the new Anchorage pad.

Leaving Kodiak

Bye Bye Wilcos, See You Soon

Meghan and I are receiving many well wishes on the move to the mainland. The night before I left on the ferry the Wilcos threw an impromptu going away party featuring fresh salmon that Boppa Wilco caught, ironically enough, while he was in Anchorage last weekend picking up the family's new surf wagon. Momma Wilco, Paxson and Stokely baked a ferry cake.

Looks just like a ferry doesn't it? ("Boos" is Paxsonspeak for "Bruce")

Have Wiener, Will Travel

The next day I filled up the car with our remaining belongings and our friend Alicia helped distract Meghan from the stresses of moving by taking a long walk with her and the dogs. We then headed to town for sushi before I drove onto the ferry. As the Tustumena steamed out of the harbor I tried to call the memories of our first glimpses of Kodiak to mind and began to appreciate all that I have learned and experienced while on the Island. One things for sure, we are going to miss our Island friends.

Waiting to board the M/V Tustumena

Whales vs. Cruise Ships

Experts examine a fin whale in Vancouver

Earlier this summer "the Future" featured a report about an oil tanker that struck a humpback whale in Prince William Sound. Well, it seems that another ship has arrived to port with a whale on its prow. The Vancouver Sun reports that a cruise ship hit the carcass of a fin whale and dragged it to Vancouver. Scientists later found that the whale had nothing in its stomach and only a thin layer of blubber suggesting that the whale had suffered an illness. What's interesting about the Sun story is that the article is found in the "Health" section of the paper's online edition beneath headings such as "Family & Child," "Seniors," and "Fitness." I wonder if folks at the Sun have been reading and listening to recent reports in the Times and on Fresh Air about the surprising interactions between whales and humans, including instances where whales have playfully lifted small boats from the water and gently set them back on the surface. The most striking new information about whale behavior and physiology, however, is the recent report that the whale neocortex, the part of the brain responsible for higher-order thinking, is much larger (by percentage) than the human brain. Perhaps, argues Dr. Lori Morino, the whale neocortex is so highly evolved because during its evolution from a hippopotamus the whale experienced such dramatic changes in its physiology (e.g. losing limbs, moving its nose to the top of its head and developing sonar). No word yet on whether whales have started using Twitter though.

The Waning Hours in Kodiak

Meghan and I stepped out for a walk after dinner to hunt for salmonberries. A month past the solstice, the evening light is fading as is the time we have left on the island. The next two days will be spent tying up loose ends and preparing for the voyage to the mainland with Reb to prepare the new homestead for Meghan's arrival next week. Although we were able to say goodbye to many of our friends during the Saltonstall's party on Saturday, we are feeling very nostalgic for the year that came and went all too fast.

We hiked a little ways up Kashevaroff Mountain to find bushes full of berries and, to Meghan's relief, no bruins. In the distance we watched the motions of the Kodiak we have come to know and love, the three new wind turbines churned through low clouds hanging over Pillar Mountain, the Horizon Kodiak container ship steamed toward Pier 3 and several cars slowed near bridges on the road to catch a glimpse of bears that have frequented the nearby streams in recent days.

the rain persists...

The boys are laying low, preparing for the big move...

Fishin' With Dad

Ready to Fish

My Dad the rambler flew in from Denver Sunday evening. We chartered the U-Rascal for a day of sport fishing on Monday morning. Chris, the skipper, is known for finding the big ones. "People have been complaining that they can't find any fish, but they're just hanging around town," explained Chris. So we set a course for a fishing hole several miles from Kodiak near Afognak Island. As we steamed across Marmot Bay the clouds parted revealing a brilliant blue sky . The Gulf of Alaska spanned the horizon to our right, while the forests, peaks and cliffs of Spruce and Afognak Islands jutted from the sea on the left. Puffins, fulmars and kittiwakes flapped from our wake and the spouts of several whale pods were visible in the distance. After a 90 minute voyage we reached the coast of Afognak Island and dropped our jigs. Before long silver (coho) salmon and the prized king (chinook) salmon were tugging at our lines. Each fish seemed to fight harder than the last. Eventually we caught our limit (two each) of king salmon and as many silvers as we could reasonably eat. We then switched to halibut tackle and from the minute the baited hook sank to the ocean floor we were fighting the tasty flatfish. Needless to say, we soon caught our limit of halibut as well and set our sights on home port. The trip back, however, was just as exciting as the fishing. Pods of Dall's porpoise (known to reach speeds of 30 knots) surfed in our wake, humpback whales jumped skyward in full body breaches and fin whales (second in size to the blue whale) raced in front of our bow. When it was all said and done Dad and I had brought home about 100 lbs. of fish.

Determined to land a monster chinook

Sea Kayak Skills Symposium

The Alaska Kayak School's "Burn"

On Saturday Meghan and I participated in the first of a four day intensive kayak class offered by the Homer-based Alaska Kayak School. The financial constraints of an upcoming relocation prohibited us from attending all four days of classes. Unfortunately, the weather turned wet the day before the class, soaking Kodiak in rain, while fog and low clouds clung to the hills and mountains. Fortunately, the Alaska Kayak School provides each student with a full-body dry suit that keeps body and limb dry and warm in very cold North Pacific seas. Our instructor Tom, however, claimed that the water surrounding Kodiak was refreshing, almost warm compared to the glacier-fed water around Homer. During the class we learned several rescues and maneuvers including the sweep stroke, draw stroke and low brace turn to increase our comfort and safety while on the water. Special thanks to Island Trails Network; a local nonprofit instrumental in bringing the Symposium to Kodiak.

Prepared to paddle

Heli Yeah! (Day Two)

Sun up: Center Mountain

The "party" atop Center Mountain continued until midnight as the sun dropped below the volcanic peaks of the Alaska Peninsula to the west. Sated by a tasty camp meal and anticipating the next day of skiing, we slid into our bags for sleep. Sunday morning greeted us with bright sun and a mild breeze. In the distance a low-lying fog shrouded Kodiak town. The three new windmills on Pillar Mountain, however, stood above the mist as though floating in air. Patrick provided the breakfast and the group prepared for a full day of skiing, skinning and hiking/bushwhacking (watch Patrick's video).

Skiing home

We took a morning ski run off the southern face of Center Mountain before packing up our gear and skiing home. The ground that Patrick used to cover in about three and a half hours during his yearly ski quests would take us nearly twice that. In addition to almost 2000' vert of skiing we had several miles of hiking and some mild bushwhacking ahead of us. The views of surrounding peaks, valleys and rivers, however, kept our heads up. Eventually Patrick did unsheathe his machete during the final leg of our hike as we dropped off a high ridgeline into Sargent Creek drainage. Though the vegetation was thick, a footpath led us toward the creek without incident. Soon, we found ourselves on a dusty road in Bells Flats in the bed of a Ford speeding toward our respective families, showers and ice packs. I would like to thank Steve, Greg, Lisa, Mike and Patrick for showing me around Kodiak's backcountry. I hope to be back soon.

Looking back on our lines

$15 Million Airport Coming to a Village Near You

Ouzinkie, a village of 165 souls located on Spruce Island will soon be home to a new airport, courtesy of the $1.1 billion FAA stimulus package. Read more in the Anchorage Daily News...

Heli Yeah! (Day One)

"Breathe, breathe in the air"

Soon after recovering from our bushwhacking adventure last week I got a call from Patrick offering another backcountry ski adventure. He proposed that we fly to the top of Center Mountain, camp and ski from the summit as far as possible before hiking home. After working out the logistics we decided to depart Saturday afternoon. For this excursion we joined up with pro skier Mike Mannelin, Greg, Lisa, and Steve. All of whom have extensive knowledge of skiing Kodiak's backcountry. The chopper was delayed due to morning fog that burnt off by mid-day so we waited at the helipad in eager anticipation. The wait was well worth the ride, however. We crammed our gear and our bodies (a little on the heavy side) into the aircraft and our pilot Tom fired up the chopper. As the rotors sped up and we lifted off I had the the first three minutes of Pink Floyd's Dark Side of the Moon playing in my head: the screaming woman's voice and the chopper's whine synched up and the cymbals crashed in at the moment of liftoff, then the sensation of floating over Kodiak's lush greens and rounded peaks - "Look around, choose your own ground." Only music could describe the ride.

On the trail of a brown bear behind Center Mountain.

The twenty minute flight to the top of Crown Mountain left me hungry for more. (Later I half-jokingly asked Meghan, "could we register at Chugach Powder Guides?") We offloaded our gear and chose a spot to set up camp before quickly gearing up for an evening ski. The views south and west toward the heart of Kodiak Island were spectacular - mountains and a couple of glaciers defined the horizon. After a long run of nearly 2000' vert, we found ourselves at the bottom of a high valley covered in snow. Brown bear tracks and scat left evidence of wildlife activity in the valley. We skied to end of the snow, pleased to be in the shadows as Kodiak has experienced "hot" weather for the last several weeks - a windless 70 degrees. We stuck on our skins and climbed back to the top of Center to prepare dinner and enjoy the sunset - four hours hence.

Mountain chef, guide and morale booster Patrick Saltonstall

Once reaching the summit the group settled in for appetizers (salami), dinner (red beans, rice, cabbage and salami), and drinks (rum, boilermakers and cherry tea). Greg and Patrick cooked up a delicious meal while I listened to the group's tales of adventure in the Kodiak backcountry. Patrick talked of his yearly quests to ski in every month of the year which compelled him to scramble the several miles on foot to the top of Center Mountain during summer months and ski. "Yup, I could climb up here, ski a run and hike back to the road in seven hours," explained Patrick. "I'm glad those days are over." Greg and Lisa carve out time to ski most of the year on the Island and are approaching the "one million vertical feet" mark. Mike, who has logged several hours in a chopper, told me about his appearances in heliskiing movies. "At first it's terrifying, then it becomes addictive, like crack cocaine." Steve and his wife Sharon own and operate Orion's, the only ski shop in town (besides Patrick's barn). Together they have flown many times to Kodiak peaks and Steve was able to describe many of the runs that we could see from our campsite - lots more to ski.

Looking south and enjoying the high life.